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Costumes
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The
logistics of getting children accurately costumed can be somewhat overwhelming
for both parents and teachers. However, having the students and parents in
period costume is an essential part of the program. For that reason, some form
of costume is mandatory for participation in the Fort Ross ELP. The
suggestions are intended as a guide. Do the best you can with what you have
and have a good time.
Also PLEASE view the Photo Gallery of our volunteers which show wonderful costumes
View the most current up to date research by David Rickman
In
this section we provide a brief historical sketch of Russian-American costumes
and give some simple suggestions about how to economically approximate
historical dress for participants. Focus is on the costumes of the majority
population at Ross: the laborers and promyshlenniki and their families.
Most
of what we know about clothing worn in Russian America comes from journal
descriptions as well as inventories of garments and materials. No
actual clothing from Fort Ross has survived to show us samples of daily dress.
Common people did not save their clothing. Instead they passed on or remade
their clothing and then used up the rags. Most museum samples are fancy
dresses for wealthy people and can give us a skewed notion of what most people
wore.
Except
for the wife of the last manager of Ross, Elena Rotcheva, her servant and her
family, no Russian women of any class are documented to have lived at
Settlement Ross. Male employees in Russian America were encouraged to marry or
live with native women, mostly Kashaya Pomo or Coast Miwok.
Although some Alaskan or Creole (mixture of Russian and Native) women
did come down from Alaska.
Russian
men might have brought their traditional Russian clothing but were also
supplied by the company. Company issue reflected the styles of Europe and
America and consisted of hats, vests, frock-coats, broadfall pants, boots, and
cotton or linen shirts. These items, with personal variations according to
climate, personal taste, and ethnic background probably formed the basis for
men’s clothing at Settlement Ross.
Native
American influences were seen in the clothing of Russian America. A look at
Native Alaskan clothing will confirm that Alaskan women were skilled
seamstresses. Siberian and Aleut style head gear, raincoats, trousers and
footwear were worn at company outposts. In addition, Native Alaskan women were
employed by the company to sew European style clothing.
Russian America was not isolated in the 19th Century. There was
frequent exchange of goods and ideas with Europe and the world. Fashions were
readily adopted. Ships carried
fabrics from all over the world including silks, linens and cottons. These
were available to any residents of the colonies who could afford them. Beads
were also an important trade item and very popular with Native men and women.
Archaeology suggests that Alaskans especially liked blue beads. The California
Indians loved red, black and white beads. Beads were worn in strands and sewn
onto clothing.
Women
often wore a simple long blouse, or chemise, and a drawstring skirt.
The chemise was worn alone for sleeping and in the privacy of home. A
skirt or sarafan could be worn over the chemise, shawl, boots or simple shoes.
For an adult a cap or scarf was added for regular daily wear. Aleut women
often wore a smock of linen or cotton that was cut like traditional Alaskan
animal skin parkas.
Whenever
possible these women would purchase fabric from the company or from ships to
make stylish but simple dresses. Patterns
were not available, but ships often carried dressmakers’ dolls to
demonstrate the latest styles. Although
their dresses look quite formal to us (relative to our jeans and t-shirts),
they were much simpler in fabric, decoration, and fullness of the skirt than
upper class ladies’ dresses.
The
California natives working at Ross are considered to have dressed in the
styles or elements of the styles previously described. Fringed leather or
cotton “Indian” styles are not appropriate for Settlement Ross.
Natives from this area did not dress in this style.
Boys
and girls dressed like their parents after the toddler stage. Both little
girls and boys wore long “dresses.” Some
scholars indicate this was a practical idea until they were out of diapers.
Many children, however, ran about just in their long shirts or chemises
in warm weather.
Pictures
of the past show us that people of earlier times and varying backgrounds
dressed very differently than we do. If we study pictures and clothing of the
period and place that we are trying to recreate, we can learn a lot about the
people and their lives. When we don costumes of a particular place and era, we
better understand its inhabitants.
You
might have your students create on paper, costumes that they would have worn
in times past.
SEWING MATERIALS: All natural fabrics are preferable (wool, linen, cotton)
Thrift stores are a great resource for costume
possibilities such as scarves, belts, skirts
and shawls for girls. While you are there, be on the lookout for wooden or
ceramic bowls, cups and similar accessories. A trip to the thrift store could
be a class activity or a homework assignment.
Our
coastal climate brings lots of fog. The grass and ground are often wet, even
if there is no rain. Rain boots are the ideal footwear and can look great as a
costume item. We highly recommend that they be brought along with an extra
pair of shoes. Long underwear works well under costumes and can make all the
difference between a comfortable day and a shivering one.
“Peasant” style skirt & blouse, 1830s day dress,or skirt with straps sewn on to
make a sarafan.
Skirts can be made from a length
of fabric to reach the ankles with a drawstring casing at the waist. Thrift
shops or perhaps mom’s closet can provide a woman’s skirt which can be full length on a girl with some adjustment to
the waist. Avoid ruffled hems or
tiered skirts.
Blouses of a simple peasant style
are good. White, blue or red colors are best.
Avoid lacy Victorian styles. A
woven or corded sash can be added but the blouse should be tucked in. A strand
of glass beads will add a nice touch.
Wool shawls of woven, challis, or
simple knits will add warmth and flair. Plain
scarves tied behind the neck or a little cap are optional for girls but the
custom for women at that time, particularly if they were of the Russian
Orthodox faith.
COSTUME SUGGESTIONS: BOYS AND MEN
Boys’ and men’s shirts were roomy and comfortable. They were often worn outside the pants with a sash or belt around the waist. They were usually plain white, blue or red. Use a twisted length of cord or a fringed woven sash. Buckled leather belts were used to support hunting or traveling gear. An old shirt of Mom’s or Dad’s may be pressed into service.
For pants, select plain dark colors (preferably not denim) or woven stripes. Baggy pants tucked into boots look great. The shirt worn outside the pants is useful for covering modern pants with pockets and fly openings.
Hats were felted wool, fur or straw. Plain knitted caps are good for the cooler months and for Night watch. Brimmed straw hats are for warm weather.
Belt of rope or cloth
Warm sweater or jacket
Socks of cotton or wool
Rain boots and shoes